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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.